Thursday, October 29, 2009

How much do you really miss something without even realising??

As you can tell from previous posts and videos I have used up alot of my spare time skateboarding. This happend for various reasons:
a) No waves
b) I was bored with surfing
c) I was angry (note: skateboarding helps release alot of anger)

Anyways, as the story goes I noticed that there was a 2mt swell heading towards the South coast...(First insticnt is that Falesia would be going off).
I decided to see if Ryan fancied a surf seeing as I am on half term and Ryan seems to have no school, although he claims he does.
round 2.15pm on Wednesday, we loaded the things into the car and headed towards Falesia.
There was some swell, not the swell we had hoped for but the wind was killng it.
We decided to check the peak at Marina Hotel as it looked better (it wasn't by the way).
However, we still went for a surf, Ryan, Luke and Moi.
Conditions were average, head high, mushy, wind blowing onshore.....even though they wern't perfect....I still had an amazing time.
It's weird how you completly forget about something you really enjoy......then the next minute you wonder how you could of forgotten all about it.
This is what we call "stoked". Yep, you heard it.....
I shall be back surfing this weekend as we have a big swell with zero wind...looks like its going to be a Falesia Classic.

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